Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Wetness, warm pine, piggeries, fertilizer factory pongs, wisteria, jasmine, gorse, damp earth, the sea, herbs.
Warm, dry, full, tipsy, comfy bed, great food, Chateau de Valmy Premier Cru.
Wet, wet feet, aching hands (from hanging on).
Very steep hills in Llafranc (Costa Brava), tiny route from Trilla to Ansignan (PO), dangerous substances road to avoid the tunnels near the border, tiny windy road along the Gorges de Galamus (PO).
More specifically, we stayed in a fabulous chambre d'hotes Chateau La Tour Apollinaire in Perpignan - beautiful, wonderful hosts, huge spaces, exquisitely decorated, superbly equipped - a pure delight. From there we headed down to Spain, to Tossa del Mar and Cadaques, staying in Guide du Routard-recommended hostelries. We've never been disappointed by a Routard place either for the hotel or restaurant. Cadaques was delightful. We dined, as recommended by the hotel receptionist, at Qu4tro on the front where the food was original and very tasty. Alcoholically, it was just a gentle stroll back to our hotel.
Back in France, we detoured via Cathar country staying in Cucugnan and ate superbly at the Auberge du Vigneron. The sun was out for the drive home so we stayed off the main roads as much as possible preferring to take the minor roads via villages such as Bages, and then along the coast from Agde. In total we did 1200km which isn't huge but for an aprenti-biker such as me, was quite sufficient, and, more importantly, thoroughly enjoyable.
In fact, we may go back to Cathar country this weekend!