Friday, November 20, 2015

Fresh air and mushrooms

Today is probably the last of the beautiful, mild days we've been enjoying all month. Tomorrow, the temperature is set to plummet by 10°C. I took the afternoon off to walk in one of my favourite local spots - Domaine de St Sauveur - get blown about a bit in the blustery wind and clear out any residual cobwebs. 

It was peaceful enough for me to do my version of Walkactive walking without feeling conspicuous. Soon it'll be dark when I get out of work, and my enthusiasm to walk will dwindle to nothing. I'm making the most of it while I can. While I walked, I thought about what a pleasure it's been this autumn being outside to enjoy life.

For example, sometimes, the weather is so perfect, you just have to jump onto (the back of) a bike and ride off into the hills. The day after our tour of l'étang de Ponant, we pursued our two-wheel weekend with a bike trip into the Cevennes to admire the glorious colours.

Sunny Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
It's not New England, but it's still a spectacular sight.

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
We meandered along some tiny tiny roads, no wider than the width of a car, and took it carefully because sometimes there was nothing between the edge of the road and a sheer drop down. I sat very still on the back of the bike...

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
It was so warm I just had my tee-shirt and jacket on, and even felt it was a bit much. In the shade, however, it was more obviously autumn and a lot chillier.

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
We stopped for lunch at St Jean du Gard, from where the little steam train runs to Anduze. November 1 is a public holiday in France, so many places were shut. We were starting to get a little worried about our rumbling stomachs. After circling round the town three times, we decided to try the restaurant in the Routard guide, La Treille.


Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
We had wanted to sit outside in the sun, but as all the bars with terraces were shut, along with all the others, and the only other restaurant open had a terrace in the shade where everyone was wrapped up in coats, we thought La Treille inside was the best option.


Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
It was a good choice. It was warm and snug inside with a wonderfully cosy interior - lots of nooks and intimate spots. The crepes were delicious too. I had one made with 1/3 chestnut flour filled with a local pelardon cheese, and my DB had a regular crepe filled with potatoes, lardons and cheese. It was very hearty. We were very good and sensible and didn't have any cider or wine, the better to navigate the narrow winding roads.

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
Every corner opened up different views of the hills, and the stunning sight of azure blue sky, as vibrant as anything you see on the Cote d'Azur!

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015

I was struck by the amazing contrast of the intense green on the terraces in the photo above compared to the rich golden colours of autumn and grey/greens of the pines elsewhere. Is it pasture or winter wheat?

Hunters with hunting dogs in the trailer
At one junction, we came across several trucks belonging to hunters, at what was obviously the end of their day's hunting. In the trailer were the dogs so I suppose it was a very well-organised group, maybe even professionals. Wild boar are a big problem in the region. Their numbers increase every year and they are extremely destructive.

Cevennes 1 Nov 2015
The wild boar would probably have been in heaven in some of the woods we passed through. In places, the strong fragrance of wild mushrooms was like riding through heaven, and had we been looking to go mushroom picking, I don't think we would have been disappointed.

As it was, we left them in peace, but I can still remember the delicious smell of damp humus and aromatic fungi.

That ride was one of the highlights of this month, appealing as it did to all our senses, but even local walks and another bike ride have been pure delight, and I feel so much the better for it all.

Ready indeed to face a winter of learning Python!

14 comments:

  1. Nice post, thanks. Always a pleasure to see photos of an area you've heard about but not seen pix of (that weren't gussied up travel porn).

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    1. Thanks, Jonathan.

      I believe there are more photos of the Cevennes on my blog if you'd like to check them out. Just click on the Cevennes label on the left. It's an area we visit often as we're so close.

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  2. What beautiful colours! Yes, just the right way to set up for winter...

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    1. It was! And as predicted, the temperatures have plummeted and we're supposed to start the day with -1°C tomorrow! Hello winter.

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  3. Reminded me of a short holiday in the area. Leaving for home I drove around a corner with high rock face on my right and a hunting dog 'landed' in front of the car.
    He shook himself, ringing his collar bell and trotted off leaving me somewhat shocked and the car reg. plate well bent!

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    1. Goodness, that must have been a shock! Good thing he wasn't a boar or it wouldn't have been just a dented reg. plate! :)

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  4. That was such a treat, joining you on your bike ride. Glorious colours and those green terraces looked stunning.
    Had to click thru to Python to find out what you were on about!

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    1. It was truly glorious!

      I had never heard of Python until I saw a course for it on Coursera and a quote from a woman who said she'd never done anything like that but found it doable. It's definitely blowing away the old brain cell cobwebs! :)

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  5. Glorious! am loving the change of colors you get over your way - not so much here, esp with the drought. the old Hubstar and I did two hour walks the last two days (of course no takers from the kids!!) and it was fantastic.
    I know I'm getting old but I just think; whatever happens I'll always walk in the woods
    Hope you're well my friend!

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    1. I know what you mean about walks in the woods. I love doing that too. Being around trees is good for the soul.
      My kids decline my offers to join me on my walks too. :)

      I am well, thank you; fingers crossed it stays that way. I hope you are too. I've missed your blog. xx

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  6. Gosh those pics probably don't do it justice - but spectacular scenery. Who needs New England?! Although it's lovely being by the coast, it's pretty bleak in the winter so a splash of colour would be very welcome. So wonderful to have this on your doorstep and it's a shame it will be dark soon!

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    1. When you click on the photos, you can really get a good impression of what it was like. I love this part of France, it's so beautiful, and varied. All helped by having lots of days with sunshine and blue skies of course. Makes a hell of a difference!

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    2. I didn't realise we could click on the photos and that they go full size! All these years I've been reading your blog and I've never done it and am gutted because your scenic ones are ace. Still useless, aren't I?! X

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    3. I'm glad you like the photos. And they do look much better enlarged. Anyway, now you know and it's onwards and upwards! :)

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