In a nutshell, if you're thinking of going there, don't bother. This street, for example, is a run-down crappy old dump with abandoned houses, peeling paint, unpleasant doors and an air of being a poor relation, probably to Olargues. It is charmless and unless you had just got off the plane from somewhere really foul, you couldn't help but be disappointed.
Unlike Olargues, where we were heading for the Marché du Bio.
Wishing to forget this 'Capitale du Parc Naturel Régional du Haut Languedoc', we continued on in search of lunch. There had been some discussion about lunching on omelettes aux cèpes at a roadside café in St Pons, but although cèpes are in season, I suggested that in such a place there could be no guarantee that a more financially advantageous using of tinned cèpes wouldn't be what was on offer. Maybe a cynical thought, but don't forget that tourists are considered fair game...
The market was down the main road, with organic producers of wine, vegetables, apple juice, cheese, biscuits and honey. There was also a stall selling some niknaks in ivoire végétale (ivory palm), another selling homespun pullovers (in this heat!), and one guy who brewed his own floral essences. Down at the bottom was an African panier stall where I bought a big reed bucket as a washing basket since my boys have wrecked my two plastic ones.
We tasted the organic wine and took part in a testing of old tomato varieties. They looked promising, but their taste was never better than bland. I filled in the form and gave, out of ten, no more than five overall. I'm pretty fussy about tomatoes and insist on a good strong taste. The only ones which vaguely make the grade are cocktail toms. Anyway, it was fun taking part and the intentions of the growers had to be applauded a) to maintain a diverse tomato stock and b) search for a really tasty tomato.
With Olargues, we were not disappointed. We met some passionate wine growers - ones who believe in producing delicious and healthy wine without chemical yeast or sulphites.
Our drive back, along the D14 which is 'green' for 'beautiful' on the map, was certainly a pleasure, following the river Orb, through Roquebrun with its beach full of people and skirting the north of Béziers to rejoin the autoroute.
So, to recapitulate: don't go to St Pons; do go to Olargues and Riols, and pop into St Chinian and Roquebrun if you have time. Fun days out!
TGO
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